Sicily

After Roma, there couldn't be a better place to visit for cultural contrast than Sicily.

It has its own unique history yet at the same time, one can't help but think of Italy. And if Hulya and I were traveling alone through this incredible landscape, we would have understood so little of what makes Sicily special. But we had the honor of visiting Sonia who hosted us at her family house, and from there we road-tripped across the entire country with friends. For the last three days, we had the most incredible time in this goregous country, so without further introduction, “Amunì!"

(Let’s go!)

 We flew into Palermo, stepped off the plane, and from the tarmac this was the immediate view—and it was breathtaking. Bold and vivid landscapes became the theme of the trip. As well as "maxing"...because you see, we cannot ignore the global trends while abroad. So maxing (or taking things to the max) is what we did. And so inbewtween the airplane ride and the the long bus ride to get to Sonia's family house in the outskirts of Palermo, we had to get some quick calories. 

 

 

Potato Chip Maxing!!!

 

 After the sodium and fat boost, we wandered through the old and new neighborhoods of Palermo. The new were reminiscent of Mexico City and the old were just like i'd seen in the amazing TV show "The Leopard". 

 

 

 

 

After Palermo, we bussed to Cammarata and stayed with Sonia and her family for a two days. We'd just missed a major town celebration: Signuri di la Città (The Procession of the Black Christ) but there was plenty more interesting things waiting for us, thanks to Sonia's expertise guidance through the hills and valleys of Cammarata.

The first day was centered around cheese. We assembled the forces and piled into two cars to drive down to the valley where we met Pasquale, the owner of an incredible dairy farm and cheese factory: Fattoria Giambrone. He gave us a delightful tour. His family makes some of the best cheese in Italy. And besides giving Hulya a hands-on mozzarella lesson, he also walked us through the small zoo, an arboretum, a cool labyrinth, and gave us an incredible lesson into Sicilian history. This country is the "Granary of Italy" — and previously the "Breadbasket of Rome."

After a legendairy session of Chaxing (aka cheese-maxing) we ended the day with three more wonderful moments: a drive up to Sonia's family farmland, a celebration of Sonia's birthday with friends and family, and a visit to another universe. The only one i have well documented is the latter Andromeda Galaxy Temple. Which cannot be properly explained unless you experienced it for yourself. 

The next day, we said goodbye to Sonia's family and the gang packed into the cars again for a road trip across the country to Marlasa on the west coast. Along the way we spotted incredible olive orchards full of well established frantoia trees.

We also stopped along the way for a gelato (each time discovering a new flavor that truly shook our faith in American ice cream) before arriving to a very groovy beach with strong Greek vibes. We ate some delicious "Red Riding Hood" calamari and sipped wine next to the water then split into two groups: the walkers and the surfers. I joined the surf group and headed to the beach across the bay where there was the largest collection of kite surfers i'd ever seen! 

The wind was perfect for surfing, and i wanted to wing-surf but the water was too shallow so Niko and i decided to have our first lesson in kite surfing...and it was EPIC! Truly. I cannot do justice to the sensatino of guiding the force of a powerful kite through the air. Cutting and carving the sky with the most subtle movements of the wrist and elbow. And we would have kept practicing (and eventually surfing) if not for the sun setting. So we rinsed off the salt and rejoined the gang for a beautiful sunset near a famous windmill were local salt is collected and crushed.

(the moon and stars were aligned for us that evening)


The final day in Sicily was remarkable and more memorable than all previous days. I wish the kite surfing lesson was the most memorable, but unfortunately the sunburn i got from the 10 hour sail boat trip became the more memorable...but hey, Futu-tini!  

Which literally means "fuck it" or "let it be".

That day we all mosey'd over to the ferry port early in the day, energized ourselves with espressos and pastries, then loaded into the boat that took us to and the iconic island of Favignana. 

Incredible boat trip around the island revealed relics from Phoenician history and the Punic war, a castle on top left over from Normand occupation, and fascinating limestone mines which the Romans carved into the seashore. 

Also, in the late 1800s, the famous Florio family sought a way to preserve bluefin tuna for long-distance transport without relying solely on salt. They were inspired by early French food preservation techniques and experimented with steaming the tuna and packing it into tin cans with high-quality olive oil. This method extended the fish's shelf life dramatically and turned tuna into a globally exportable product, which was popularized with the invention of the innovative tin can with an opening key.

We arrived back to land, and chowed on more seafood (the fried sardines and tuna burgers were incredible!) and began to wander back through the streets. We were so relaxed from the whole day out on the water, but the only problem was that we also felt like fried fish (or some sort of red lobster). So while the evening was still warm and our bodies were properly sun burnt, we kept meandering through the streets to get a double scoop of gelato. That helped distract us for a moment. But it was so good we had to turn back around and get another double scoop!

Gelato-maxxed nearly to the limit, we let ourselves get lost in the old streets and alleys. Around each corner we were happily surprised by grand stone buildings and royal promenades. The craftsmanship was endlessly pleasing to the eyes.

The next morning, we woke up before sunrise; took a final walk through the now deeply memorable town of Marsala; sat at a corner cafe drank our espressos whilst observing the locals slowly begin their days; then packed up and readied ourselves for Istanbul. We will miss you Italy.

 

A BIG THANK YOU to Sonia and Francesca. Your hospitality has filled us with joyous moments and remarkable memories that will always be part of us and warm our hearts.

 

"Cu nesci arrinesci.”

(Whoever goes out, succeeds) 

Roma!

It was once appropriate to say "all roads lead to Rome" but that was back when Emperor Augustus ruled in 20 BC. Considering 2046 years have passed since then, I would like to suggest a new observation: all road in Rome lead to pasta, vino, gelato, and all things antico! 

Hully and I had the change to spend a scant 24 hours in this wonderful city and we managed to cover all the modern basics of Rome without falling into any of the tourist traps. And it was fantastic!  It was also neccesary for me because i had zero ability to sleep on the 12 hour+ flight. So when we arrived to our destination in the lovely Trastevere neighborhood, the only logical thing to do to ground one's self and banish the psycho-physical fatigue of travel is get a big plate of pasta and a glass of vino!

 

But in this case, there were no plates when we ordered the delicious guanciale pasta that was perfectly al-dente. and when we finished that, we got up, took a few steps to the next door down the cobblestone street and had gelato. This, my dear readers, is the best combination for any potential jet lag. (and multiple cold showers, which came soon after)

Now, with the mind and body revived, we worked on imbuing the spirit with the bounteousness of a rich culture (and i mean rich) full of history! 

Between the architecture of old Rome and the wonderful stone streets, Trastevere feels warm and inviting. The area is a "funky, bohemian area that clings to its centuries-old, working-class roots." as described by the internet. And as a man who loves water, I deeply appreciated the Tiber river which also runs through the middle of everything. Its the the third-longest river in Italy and the longest in Central Italy.

And to the north of the river we explored the old Jewish Ghetto with its narrow streets which were so fun to meander through without a purpose. We stopped to have the best fried artichoke EVER and some coffee and pastries, before moving on to see the famous Pantheon from the 2nd century. 

 

Nearing the end of the day, began our return to the Tiber so we get dinner at a traditional ristorante on an island in the middle of the river. On the way, we explored more of the city and its hidden nooks of history. I'm particularly fond of the more antique past of Trastevere because before the Romans conquered it to gain control of and access to the river from both banks, it was still a place the Etruscans lived. I love the history of this culture who predated the Romans (and taught them much of what they knew) but will say no more than the fact that by the time of the Roman Republic in 509 BC, Trastevere a simple city lived in by sailors and fishermen.

 

 

 

(Fun fact: there are exactly three ancient triumphal arches left in Rome. They call them triumphal in the same way they define history as "his story". The victors always sugar coat things in their favor, and these arches were built to celebrate military victories. So if you killed at least 5000 people, like Emperor Constantine did, then you win a prize! And you get an arch for yourself.)

Nowadays—after the "Regal" period—the Etruscan history has become faded beneath the gargantuan spotlight of Roman relevance. But where all roads once lead to Rome, we put our trust in the culture more than the grand shadow of past empires. So in closing: Edimus. Bibimus. Antiquitate gaudebamus!

 

(We ate. We drank. And we reveled in the antiquity!)

 

IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA

 

When arriving in South Korea, it doesn’t take more than an hour or two to realize it's very different than Japan. It's glamorous. It’s grungy. And its full of Granny Gangs!

The first cultural shock wave came as a surprise. It was very materialistic, yes—we’ve all seen or heard about the K-pop idol phenomenon—but it was also very, very capitalistic in an uncoordinated hodgepodge sort of way. They are a nation of dreamers. But is it their own dream, or someone else's?

Everywhere we looked, we were visually assaulted by coffee shops, burger and pizza joints, plus a dastardly dash of Catholicism.

This stood out immediately during the journey from the airport as we debarked from the small airplane and navigated the city to our university dormitory accommodations.

Then our first day of exploring Busan revealed more intriguing contrasts and… Grandma Gangs!
What do I mean by “gangs”?



You'll find out…




We started at Gamcheon Culture Village, which was stunning!




Then we went to the famous street food hub and ate Soondae (blood sausage) and a sweet Hotteok pancake.




I’m sorry to say, but the street food was never satisfying. Neither were many of the local restaurants we visited. The various dishes always seemed to lean too heavily on the sauces, or meats, and MSG….or all in combination!

After we walked to Huinnyeoul Culture Village, which was a bit touristy. And the best part of the day (ie: most authentic) turned out to be sitting under the bridge. Watching the fishermen. There was no glamor here. It was just common people going about their weekend. Joggers, families, old folk socializing, and leathery-faced fishermen.





And on the train ride home, we spotted another faction of Granny Gangs!







Later in the week, our second dive into downtown Busan led to more mixed feelings about the ambiguous foundations of the modernized expression of culture. For example: I tried to see a museum, but all that stood in its place was a huge Adidas clothing emporium. Then I went to visit a big park...but low and behold, a mega mall had replaced it!

So with all my plans foiled, I did what any good tourist would do. I went into the shopping mall—not to shop, but to use the bathroom—then I kept wandering. And i must admit, Busan is quaint because it juxtaposes the grunge and glamour in a way that is rather entertaining. Point in fact, on almost every street corner, you glimpse supermodel adverts for the national brand of beer.
And of course, more coffee, burger, and pizza joints. But just look at these signs!

So, all that considered, I’m very grateful I found my happy spot, which was behind the university campus. The dense woody hillside, just a 10-minute walk from our dormitory, was host to incredible hiking. Almost every day, I’d set out to explore the different routes. And each time I found some remote trail or thought I’d so cleverly discovered a secret creek spot with a small waterfall, there would be… grannies!
They were always present: on the trails, listening to the radio, down in the creeks, filling water bottles, and even way up near the monastery, where a public exercise station is tucked into the side of the fire road.



The Granny Gangs are as impressive as they are pernicious!



Hulya also found her secret spot: a Little Prince installation.


(Sunset view from our dormitory room)




On our last day exploring Busan, we went to the beach, which was so refreshing. The brisk air, the cool water, and the lack of Botox advertisements was invigorating! I even spotted a small and stunning variety of jellyfish.




(The Common Northern Comb Jelly)


We finished the day by enjoying a incredible Japanese dinner. This Kaiseki restaurant turned out to be one of the best meals we had all month.


Michelin awarded, and it cost only 24$ each!
 

Before we flew north to Seoul, I had the odd experience of being approached by a Jewish rabbi who made quick, friendly talk and then tried to convert me to Judaism. I politely refused. He asked if I was sure and even promised it wouldn’t take much time to convert. So, without saying outright that I don’t really like Zionist agendas, I made it clear I was happy and in fact on my way to attend to my natural cathedral in the woods.



I made a short film to prove the point, which is that if there is a god, it's certainly contained in the infinite multitudes of nature’s immaculate design and beauty.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiN4GaA_CcM






Seoul Food in the big city!



We stayed almost an hour from central Seoul in a small hanok (which is yet half the of our Busan dorm room, yet far more comfortable).


Here’s the courtyard of our hanok: a traditional Korean house from the Joseon dynasty.

Our one full day in Seoul was hot, hot, hot. As we walked for nearly 12 hours around the city, we found ourselves seeking out shopping malls or park bathrooms, which were delightfully chilled by the AC.

By the end of the South Korea trip, we’d experienced food at its highest and lowest points. Just like the monsoon season. Warm and pleasant one moment, then torrential rain the next!



But to focus on the high-food-moments... there were three good dishes we discovered. Those being a whole cooked pig leg, ginseng soup, and the kimbap sushi rolls.


Samgye-tang (medicinal ginseng soup with whole chicken), mung bean pancakes, and gimbap bowl!



Still, during this visit, I ate more sandwiches from a French bakery than anything else because the bakeries were exquisite in Korea, especially Seoul. There were almost as many bakeries as coffee shops. But if you put all those together, they would still not compete with the number of Granny Gangs we saw!



Okay, okay!
It's finally time to explain the GRANNY GANGS!
In South Korea, you can’t go anywhere without a grandma. And I believe that the grandmothers are the counterespionage agents who watch everything that happens. They are on the buses, streets, and trains; they socialize all day in shopping malls amongst themselves, or wander the cities solo….but no matter their numbers, they’re omnipresent and secretly listening and watching everyone around them. Why?


Well, I posit that the copious number of inconspicuous grandmothers are always hoping to catch North Korean spies. Simple as that. There are CCTVs on every street corner or alleyway. But that technology is merely a safety net for the small amount of political gossip that may slip through the proverbial net that Granny Gangs have cast with their meticulous monitoring of all activities from the subways to the street. They are the secret super heroines of South Korea.



The final takeaway message from walking the streets of Korea is that it's like listening to the jazz pianist Chick Corea. The culture gives one a discombobulated feeling, and the cities are maddeningly arranged based purely on a gut feeling. And beneath the unstructured layout of the neighborhoods is the Neo-Barbie glamor revolution of....K-Pop!



So, if you want to look like the next biggest pop idol's cousin, come to South Korea! There’s an abundance of beauty salons for women and men. Eyebrow extensions and Botox injections are gender-free treatments that accept all citizens in need (with adequate money).


Or come to Korea for the beautiful palaces and cozy hanoks!

And come to Korea if you want to sit on subways and play “Spot the Granny” game. Hulya became a master at that. Until one day she reached her limit. It was the combo of too many long train trips and the density of people during rush hour.








Now for the final photo montage!











Changing of the guard: the perfect end to our last day in Korea.

(Long Donkey. A common kid's game???)


Mr. Do Nothing — a new artist we found. His style cracks me up!

I met a local baker and cafe owner named Harry. He was such a great and kind fellow!


Then it was time to fly...




I cannot explain how, but on our 11-hour return flight, we ended up in the most exclusive “Gangnam Style” Economy class! We had this whole cabin to ourselves!



It was unbelievable. And so the whole flight was smooth as Hokkaido butter!
Now after 35 hours of being awake (minus 2 hours for the fitful airplane sleep) we made it back to California. And in the end, it’s a bittersweet feeling to be back in California.



We’ve flown halfway around the world, taken countless busses, trains, and metros. And by my calculations we also walked 255 miles on foot!
(That's over 584,000 steps!)



And so its time to say one last, Sayonara Amigos!

Thanks for sharing the journey with us!